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Marjorie Cashmore's book "A Feast of
Memories: Black Country Food and Life at the Turn of
the Nineteenth Century" was published in 1986 by Westwood
Press.
It is a fascinating book with sections on food
interspersed with accounts of such things as schooling,
pigeon fancying, children's games and pastimes and other
aspects of Black Country life.
The numerous recipes, collected under such headings as
Pork, Beef, Pigeon, Rabbit, Puddings, were gathered by
Marjorie from her won Black Country family and from
friends and acquaintances in the area. There is no
doubt they are authentic recipes, actually used in the
Black Country - which, according to Marjorie includes
Wolverhampton. |
We give here the three recipes for "the three
dishes most commonly associated with the Black Country, namely,
Faggotts and Peas, Groaty Pudding, and Bread Pudding". To
these we have added Grey Peas and Bacon, another essential Black
Country dish. (All the quantities are for serving four
people).
Groaty Pudding or Groaty Dick
0.5 lb groats |
1 bay leaf (optional) |
1.5 lbs shin of beef |
Hot water to cover |
1lb leeks |
Salt and Pepper |
2 medium sized onions |
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Cut the beef into bite-size pieces, slice the
leeks and onions. Place all the ingredients in a stew jar
or casserole dish and bake slowly for at least three hours,
longer if possible. Serve with crusty bread. A thicker
version of this, with more groats and less meat, was all some
families could afford. It was spread on bread so that each
member could have something warm and filling.
(Marjorie says that groats are oats with the
husks removed but before they are ground to produce oatmeal or
steamed then rolled to make rolled oats or flakes. Groats
have the highest nutritional value of any cereal.)
Faggots and Peas
1.5 lbs pig's fry |
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs |
2 medium sized onions |
salt and pepper |
2 tbsps fresh sage or 1 of dried |
1 tbsp plain flour |
Wisk the fry, leaving the caul (the lacy, fatty
membrane surrounding the stomach and gut) and leave it in
lukewarm water to make it more pliable. Mince or chop the
fry and onion and mix thoroughly with the breadcrumbs, seasoning
and sage. Form into eight portions and wrap each portion
in a piece of caul. Place in a baking dish and cover with
the hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for about three
hours until the faggots are nicely browned. More hot water
cab be added if needed. Thicken the juice with the flour
half an hour before serving.
These faggots are traditionally served with
mushy peas: soak dried peas overnight and then team or
boil slowly while the faggots are cooking.
Bread Pudding or Fill Belly
2 lbs stale bread |
3 eggs |
0.5 lbs shredded suet |
2 oz butter or margarine |
1 lb granulated or brown sugar |
1 teaspoons mixed spice |
1 lb mixed dried fruit |
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Soak the bread in water, then drain and squeeze
out the excess moisture. Flake with a fork and add the
remaining ingredients. Mix well together and spread the
mixture into a greased baking tin. Dot with butter and
bake in a moderate oven for about two hours or until nicely
browned. (A variation is to make a pastry base, spread it
with jam and then cover with the bread pudding mixture.
bake as before.)
Grey Peas and Bacon
1 lb dried grey peas |
1 large sliced onion |
3 oz Pearl Barley |
Salt and Pepper |
1 lb bacon |
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Soak the peas and pearl barley overnight and
then place in a saucepan with the onion, previously browned
bacon and salt and pepper. Cook slowly for three hours.
(In our experience the bacon is chopped into small pieces before
browning).
Some other of Marjorie's recipes which catch the
eye are Parsnip Balls, Boney Pie, Stuffed Pig's Ears, Cowheel
and Beef Pudding, Sippet Pudding, Ginger Nobs, Jugged Pigeon.
Get the book if you can find it!
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