The front cover of the
booklet. |
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How you and your family
can sleep in comfort
With a little
trouble and at very little cost you can
make your Anderson steel shelter a
comfortable winter sleeping place for
your family. Four adults and four
babies, for example, or four adults and
two older children can find sleeping
room in a standard Anderson shelter 6
ft. 6 in. in length.
This leaflet shows
you how this can be done, and also gives
you a few simple hints about health
matters which will enable you not only
to sleep in comfort in your shelter
throughout the winter, but to guard
yourself and your family against the
effects of winter air-raid conditions.
How to make bunks for
your shelter
A hammer, some
nails and a saw, and possibly a pair of
pliers that will cut wire are all the
tools you will need. The materials are a
few feet of timber, not less than 1⅞ in.
square, some nails, and some canvas (or
hessian, burlap, stout wire netting or
similar material).
Look at the diagram
at the arrangement of bunks and you will
at once see the idea. The top bunks run
from one end of the shelter to the
other, the ends resting on the angle
irons that run horizontally across the
shelter at each end. These bunks should
be 20 in. wide, and about 6 ft. 6 in.
long.
The lower bunks are
the same size, but rest on the floor of
the shelter, on feet or legs that will
keep them at least 4 in. off the floor. |
The cross bunks for the
children are 4 ft. 6 in. long, and have four
legs, each 14 in. high, which rest on the side
pieces of the lengthways bunks. The cross bunks
can he up to 2 ft. wide or even a little more.
Fix your canvas, hessian, wire netting, etc.,
across the bunk frames, and the job is finished.
Your local Council may be able to help you to
obtain the timber.
Your bed
By far the best bedding for any
shelter is a properly made sleeping bag. Nothing
else can give so much warmth. Here is a simple
way of making a sleeping bag from the blankets
you already have, which does not spoil them in
any way. Or you can use old woollen skirts,
parts of old blankets, and so on.
Take any army or
similar thick blanket about 7 ft. long
and 6½ ft. wide (or pieces of old
blankets could, of course, be joined
together). Line with muslin or cotton
material to within a short distance of
the top. Sew straight across both
blanket and lining horizontally at
intervals of about a foot, making
pockets which should be well stuffed
with folded newspaper. The newspaper
stuffing should be changed every month.
Fold the two sides
of the blanket towards the centre and
sew together to within about 2 ft. of
the top. Sew together at the bottom, Sew
tapes on the open sides of the bag at
the top so that they can be tied
together when the person is inside.
Alternatively, the
bag could be made of two blankets sewn
together, but without the stuffing. In
either case the blankets should be
ironed inside and out once a month. |
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Remember that
when you are not sleeping on a thick mattress
you need as much covering under you as on top of
you. Therefore, besides your sleeping bag, and
even more if you are not using a bag, have a
good thick layer of newspapers or brown paper on
your bunk, to lie on. Paper is draught proof and
does not pass warmth.
Heating the shelter
People’s
bodies themselves provide a great deal of heat,
and the temperature of the shelter rises rapidly
as soon as it is fully occupied. Never have a
coke or other brazier in your shelter. It gives
off dangerous fumes. Oil stoves are also a
source of danger. Anything that burns uses up
oxygen, without which you cannot breathe. Also
anything that burns gives off light, and your
shelter entrance would have to be carefully
covered, making ventilation all the more
difficult.
To prevent
dangerous conditions, adequate ventilation must
be maintained, and on no account should all
openings be closed. If you need extra warmth,
the best way to secure it is a hot water bottle,
or a hot brick in your bed. A sleeping bag with
a hot bottle or brick in it will keep you
beautifully warm. Any bottle will do. Fill it up
with very hot water, and wrap an old vest or
something similar round it. Put your bricks in a
hot oven, or in front of the fire, for two
hours, to get thoroughly hot. Wrap them as you
would a hot bottle, before putting them in your
beds.
An improvised
heater can be made with two large flowerpots and
a candle. Fix the candle in one of the pots and
place it on the ground with something underneath
to raise the base just clear of the ground.
Light the candle and invert the second flowerpot
on top of the first. The candle will not burn
enough oxygen to do any harm. As the upper
flowerpot warms up it will give off a great deal
of heat. A kettle of water can be placed on top;
it should have something underneath it to raise
it just clear of the flowerpot. A Balaclava
helmet, such us every soldier is familiar with,
will keep draughts off your head.
How to keep a drink hot
A hot drink is
advisable before you go to sleep, particularly
for the children. It is a great help in keeping
warm. If you have not a thermos flask, you can
make a "hay bottle," on the principle of the hay
box used in cooking, which will keep a drink hot
for several hours. This is how you make it. Cut
a square of any old woollen material, such as an
old blanket, 8 in. longer than the length of the
bottle. Line with either thin muslin or cotton
material (an old vest would do), sewing down the
sides and leaving the top and bottom open, so
that you can stuff them later on.
Cut two strips
of the same woollen material, 8 in. to 10 in.
long and 4 in. to 5 in. wide, rounded at one
end. Line in the same way as the main square,
for about two thirds of the length, leaving a
flap at the end. Mark the main square into three
portions. Fold the lower portion over the centre
portion, making the lower half of a bag (Figure
1). Sew the two strips to each side of this
case, thus filling-in the sides of the bag
(Figure 2).
Stuff the main part of the
bag and the side pieces with straw) packed
tightly, and sew down the lining. Make a bag of
American cloth similar to the woollen material
one, but not lined or stuffed. Place the bottle
length wise in the woollen bag, fold over the
side pieces and tuck in well. Roll up the bottle
and pin the top flap over. Put this in the
American cloth bag and roll up again. Fasten
securely with, for instance, a strip of material
tied round the middle.
When you go to shelter
Before you leave the house,
turn off all gas taps, including pilot jets, and
turn off the gas at the main. Switch off
electricity at the main. Leave buckets or cans
of water and sand or earth on the front door
step, or just inside the door. Put your stirrup
pump, if you have one, where it can easily be
seen. Draw back all curtains and raise blinds in
upper rooms so that any fires which may be
started may be visible from the outside. This
may save your house. Take with you your money
and any valuables and documents, such as rent
book, or building society book, insurance
policy, records of instalment payments, etc.
Dress yourself and your
children (particularly your children) warmly on
leaving the house, even if the shelter is close
to the house. You will be going from the warm
house into the cold night air, and it will take
a little time before you are settled down and in
bed, and you should not risk anyone getting
chilled before getting into bed. Also, if
anything happens to your house during the night,
or you should have to leave your shelter, you
will have something warm to put on.
What to take with you
Identity cards, ration
books, etc. Gas masks. Hot drink. Shaded torch.
Simple first-aid articles. Hot water bottles or
bricks. A bottle of water in case anyone is
thirsty during the night. A tin of biscuits in
case the children wake up hungry in the night.
Flooding in shelters
In some cases the trouble
is caused by temporary flooding from surface
water. This often happens because earth covering
is not thick enough and not well enough rammed
down. It should be not less than 15 in. thick at
the top and 30 in. thick at the sides, and
should have been well rammed in layers. Leakage
can often be cured by removing the top part of
the earth and replacing it (using more earth, if
necessary) in layers of 4 in. or 5 in., each
layer being well rammed or trodden down before
the next is put on.
Make the side slopes even,
and beat them with a spade. A good plan if clay
is available is to make a puddle of clay and
plaster the surface with it. Another good plan
if any old linoleum is available is to place it
over the surface of the shelter before you
replace the top layers of earth. Channels should
be dug around the limits of the covering of
earth to take the surface water away. If, when
you have finished, water still leaks through the
joints of the corrugated sheets, caulk them from
the inside with rope or old rags soaked in heavy
oil or tar.
It is possible that surface
water may still find its way slowly through the
floor. To deal with this dig a sump about a foot
deep in one corner of the shelter near the
entrance. The water will then drain to this and
can be removed easily by baling. It will help
considerably in keeping the shelter dry if the
floor is covered with a layer of bricks and then
linoleum, or if duck boards made with old
salvaged timber are put down.
In many cases, however, the
trouble is due to the winter rise of subsoil
water. This, if it is not excessive, can often
be cured by raising the floor of the shelter by
putting in earth and then a layer of rubble or
clinker. Another way is to raise the whole
shelter altogether, but remember that if this is
done the shelter must be bedded in the earth not
less than a foot, and that the more it stands
above ground level the more earth will be
required to cover it. If after taking these
measures water still enters the shelter, seek
advice of the local Council, as then possibly
the only cure will be the construction of a
concrete "tank" within the shelter.
It is possible that you may
get some condensation of moisture on the inside
of the shelter. When this occurs it can be
improved by painting the inside with paint or a
shellac varnish on to which is thrown granulated
cork or sawdust while the paint is wet.
Some general hints
It is most important that
your bedding should be absolutely free from
damp. Do not, therefore, leave it in the
shelter, however dry the shelter may seem to be,
but bring it into the house and thoroughly air
it every day.
If, as may frequently
happen, you spend the evening in your shelter
before going to bed, you may want to read or
knit, for example. Take care of your eyes. A
good light can be obtained from candle lamps or
a night light. Oil lamps are dangerous as they
may get spilled either by shock from a bomb or
by accident. There is not the same objection to
the use of a lamp while you are awake as there
is after you arc asleep; if the air should
become very foul, you would know it long before
the danger point is reached, which might not be
the case if you were asleep. But of course you
must take care that no light is visible from the
outside. If you have been using such a light,
however, clear the air in the shelter before you
settle down to sleep, otherwise you will have a
disturbed night.
If you take your dog into
your shelter, you should muzzle him. Dogs are
liable to become hysterical if bombs explode
nearby. Cold draughts may be prevented from
striking directly on to the occupants by screens
at the entrance or by curtains hung in front of
the bunks.
In case your house is
destroyed, you should try to make plans now to
go and stay with friends or relations who live
near you, but not too near. They should also
arrange how to come to you if their house is
knocked out.
Your local authority will
be setting up an Administrative Centre where
your questions can be answered. Look out for
posters telling you where the centre is. In the
meantime, in case of emergency, find out from
the police or wardens where the offices are at
which the local authority and the Assistance
Board are doing their work for people who have
been bombed. |