In the 19th century the population of Walsall rapidly grew, as people moved into the area looking for employment in the expanding industries. Within 40 years the population had doubled, and doubled again in the next 25 years. By the end of the century the population had increased almost nine times to nearly 90,000, which would have been unimaginable in 1800.
  

The stuccoed building, on the corner of Leicester Street was built in 1830 and 1831 in brick and stone, to a Greek Doric design, with a large portico supported by four columns. It cost 1,600 guineas to build, raised by a sale of shares costing £10 each.

St. Matthew’s Hall. From an old postcard.

An earlier view of St. Matthew's Hall.

The building remained empty for several years until it was purchased in 1847 by Mr. C. F. Darwall, Clerk to the Magistrates, for £620.

It was initially used as a savings bank, until around 1855 when the ground floor became the County Court, and a lecture room. The first floor was used as a freemason’s hall, and also for musical entertainment.

The County Court continued to be held there until the 1990s when it moved to Upper Bridge Street. The building then became a bar, a restaurant, a night club, and is now a Wetherspoons pub.

When the library and news room closed in St. Matthew’s Hall, they were moved to John Russell Robinson's printing works on the Bridge, where a literary and philosophical institution was added, where lectures and discussions were held.

In 1857 Walsall council decided to open a library under the terms of the Free Libraries Act of 1850, which gave local boroughs the power to establish free public libraries. In 1859, a library building, designed by Nichols & Morgan in a Renaissance style, was built in Goodall Street. In 1872 the Free Library was converted to a news room, and a library with a reading room above. Three years later the books and papers from the library at Robinson’s printing works were presented to the Free Library when the subscription library closed.

In 1887 the Free Library was extended, and in 1890 the upper room became the art gallery, museum, and reference library. It was replaced in 1906 by a new Free Library in Lichfield Street. The old free library building still survives today as shops.

The Free Library.

In 1839 Samwell’s Circus Royal was in Goodall Street, and in the early 1840s Holloway’s Theatre opened at Bloxwich racecourse. Productions included popular plays and musical performances. The theatre moved to Walsall, and was replaced at Bloxwich by Bennett’s Theatre.

Until the building of the Agricultural Hall in 1868, entertainment was again mainly confined to travelling companies and amateur groups, appearing in halls and assembly rooms such as the Temperance Hall in Freer Street, and the Guildhall Assembly Rooms in Goodall Street. The Agricultural Hall was built on The Bridge opposite St. Paul’s Church in what is now Darwall Street, and sponsored by leading local farmers, millers, and grain dealers. It could seat up to 1,000 people, and acquired a theatrical licence in 1871 after which operatic and dramatic performances were held. It opened as a permanent theatre on 26th March, 1883 and was run by Rebekah Deering who rented the building. Unfortunately it was unprofitable, and suffered the same fate as the Old Square Theatre. After changing hands several times it was sold in 1885 to become a public hall, known as St. George’s Hall. It reopened on 22nd September, 1887 with an increased seating capacity of 1,500, and was used for a time as a music hall. From around 1895 it became known as St. George’s Theatre.

In the late 1890s it was rebuilt as the Imperial Theatre by the Walsall Theatres Company whose Secretary and Manager was William Henry Westwood who had a great influence on the local theatres.. It reopened on 22nd May, 1899 with a seating capacity of 1,600. The new theatre only operated for around a year because the company was already building Her Majesty’s Theatre at the top of Park Street. The Imperial Theatre became Walsall's first cinema in 1908, and screened its last film in 1968. In 1974 it became a bingo hall, and until recently a Wetherspoons pub. It is Walsall’s last surviving theatre building from the 19th century.

The Grand Theatre. From an old postcard.

Around 1870 Charles Crooke opened Crooke’s Music Hall in his former beer and wine shop on the corner of Park Street and Station Street. It became known as the Alexander Theatre, until 1886 when it changed hands. The new proprietor, William Henry Westwood changed its name to the Gaiety Theatre.

In 1890 it was replaced by the ornate Grand Theatre, built to the design of Daniel Arkell of Birmingham.

It had a cupola on which stood a gilded lady with a trumpet, and a niche containing another gilded lady playing a lyre.

It cost £14,000 to build, and had a seating capacity of 2,000, but like the other theatres was financially unsuccessful, which led to its closure in 1899.

On 4th September, 1899 it was officially reopened by Vesta Tilley as the Theatre of Varieties, and became known for variety shows, silent films, and drama. It became a cinema in 1931 after Associated British Cinemas acquired the building. It remained in use until 1st October, 1938, when it closed. After being acquired by the grandson of the mayor, Pat Collins, it reopened as the new Grand Theatre, but disaster struck on 6th June, 1939 when it was completely destroyed by fire.

Her Majesty’s Theatre

Walsall’s most successful theatre, Her Majesty’s Theatre, opened in 1900 and was built of brick and stone in French Renaissance style, with a large copper dome on the roof and a tall flagpole. The theatre stood at the top of Park Street on one of the most prominent sites in the town, which had been earmarked for the new Town Hall, until the council decided to build it in Lichfield Street.

It formed an impressive sight as seen from Park Street, and had a lavishly decorated interior with fine ornamental plasterwork, electric lighting, and a grand hall, paved with a marble mosaic. The stage was 75 feet long and 45 feet deep so that it could accommodate the most elaborate scenery and the largest companies. It could seat over 2,000 people, and was known for its high class dramas which were initially successful.

The cinema closed on 5th June, 1937 and was demolished to make way for the Savoy Cinema, later known as the A.B.C. In the process, Walsall lost one of its most elegant buildings, but no one seemed to care. There was no public outcry, people were happy to see it go.

Her Majesty’s Theatre. From an old postcard.

From the 1899 Walsall Red Book.

The Gaumont Cinema in Bridge Street, where Coffee Republic and the Co-op supermarket are today.

A 1922 view of Bridge Street and the Gaumont. From an old postcard.

The Palace Cinema in the Old Square.

An advert from 1921.

A view of the Palace Cinema from 1949.

Shortages

F. W. Willmore includes an interesting letter in his History of Walsall which gives an insight into some of the problems faced by local people in the early years of the century. It is from the December 1804 edition of The Gentleman’s Magazine, and describes the inconvenience caused by a shortage of small coins:

Water Supply

In 1804 large scale repairs to the town’s water pipes were necessary in order to ensure that the supply was clean and pure. In 1806 the network was extended, and in 1810 and 1813 improvements were made to the drainage system in High Street and Rushall Street. In 1814 the whole system was renovated at the cost of £90.

Law and Order

Policing in Walsall had never been adequate, and so in 1811 after a spate of burglaries it was decided to establish a public patrol for the protection of common property. The parish was divided into six districts, each with its own watch-house, which was funded from the poor rate. Each burgess had to take a turn in keeping watch, or find a substitute.

Each evening the people on watch would assemble at the guildhall at 10.30 before going on duty. They had the power to arrest and detain anyone acting suspiciously, until the following morning, when they would be escorted to the sheriff. If a prisoner escaped, a hue and cry would be made in the area until he or she could be recaptured. If a man on watch was killed in the execution of his duty, his executors were entitled to a reward of £40. In October 1812 sixteen deputy constables were appointed for the Borough, and eighteen for the Foreign.

There had been a jail in Walsall since the end of the 15th century, and a pillory, stocks and whipping post beside the old market cross in High Street. In the 17th century there was a town cage, and from 1627 a gaol in the town hall. In the early 19th century it consisted of two totally inadequate cold and damp rooms. Willmore includes the following description in his History of Walsall:

Things improved somewhat in 1815 when the gaol was rebuilt in the basement of the guildhall. It then consisted of six damp cells around a small yard. There were three fireplaces, but the walls were frequently so damp that moisture trickled down them. The prisoner’s allowance was limited to bread and water. At the same time a house was built for the gaoler, who by 1833 received a proper salary. Under the terms of the 1824 Improvement Act, many improvements were made in the town, including the provision of a night watch. In 1825 and 1826 watch men were appointed, but the service was soon discontinued because of inadequate funds.

The old police station in Goodall Street.

Things came to a head in the early 1830s. During the miners’ strike in 1831 six hundred special constables were enrolled, and on election day in 1832 more were enrolled, and troops were brought-in. At this time a permanent police force was established, consisting of a superintendent, and three officers.

They were based at a police station that was next to the churchyard, and also housed the fire engine. The building, known as the Station House, was for the use of the police and the temporary confinement of prisoners awaiting their appearance before the magistrates. The cells were small, and the admission of light and air was precluded by a mound of earth in the churchyard, which surrounded the back of the building.

There were no fireplaces in the cells, and the prisoners only had straw to lie on. They had no blankets and were sometimes kept there for eight days. Sometimes police officers would allow them to use their front room where there was a fire.

In 1836 extra police officers were appointed for Sunday duties, and in 1843 a new police station was built in Goodall Street. From 1837, following an agreement with the County Magistrates, prisoners from Walsall were housed in Stafford Jail, and in 1843 Walsall Gaol was replaced by a lock-up in Goodall Street police station.

A new Grandstand

In 1809 a grandstand was added to Walsall’s racecourse, which opened on Long Meadow in 1777. The grand stand, which was supported by annual subscriptions, was built at a cost of £1,300, and by 1823 had 34 subscribers, each of whom possessed a "subscribers' ticket," entitling them to free admission.

It contained a billiard room on the ground floor, and had a turret with a bell. It survived until 1879 when it was sold for £72, and removed from the site.

The races, which attracted large numbers of visitors to the town, were supported by the Corporation, which paid five pounds annually towards the running of the course.

After each meeting a ball was held at the George Hotel. In 1828 the Gold Cup was won by "Maria Darlington," a chestnut mare belonging to Mr. Fletcher.

The event was celebrated by Miss Foote, a popular actress, and the Countess of Harrington who later that day sang "Little Jockey" at the Walsall Theatre.

The Market

During the Napoleonic Wars the market thrived, selling large quantities of Irish bacon to the navy. Live pigs were shipped from Ireland for the purpose. When the war ended in 1815 Walsall market continued to trade in Irish pigs, and was one of the main English markets dealing in them. Shopkeepers in High Street used to let pig pens in front of their shops for the accommodation of the pigs. In 1815 when a proper pig market was provided at the back of High Street there was considerable opposition.

It has been claimed that in 1855 as many as 2,000 pigs were brought to the market in a day. The trade at Walsall soon suffered because of the coming of the railways, and by 1889 few pigs were sold. During the latter part of the century the market concentrated on general retail sales, and grain. In 1835 barley, beans, oats, peas, and wheat, were for sale. 

High Street in 1861. From an old postcard.

The Gas Works

In the early 1820s there was great dissatisfaction with the state of the town, particularly with the lack of street lighting. On 28th May, 1824 the Corporation obtained an improvement act for the town, at a cost of £620. The 1824 Improvement Act gave the Corporation powers to carry out improvements in the town centre, including paving, lighting, and widening the roads. The improvements were supervised by the improvement commissioners, a body which included the mayor, capital burgesses, the recorder, the town clerk, the vicar of St. Matthew’s, the headmaster of the grammar school, the steward of the manor of Walsall, the churchwardens, the overseers of the poor, and 46 others.

The area for improvement covered the Borough, Stafford Street, Wolverhampton Road, Marsh Lane, Birmingham Street, part of King Street, and part of New Street.

The commissioners had the power to make and repair pavements, order residents to connect their property to a sewer on pain of a £10 fine, light the streets with gas and oil lamps, build a gas works, appoint and pay watchmen, cleanse, name, and number the streets, ensure that steam engines would consume their own smoke, on penalty of a 40 shillings per day fine to the owner, and provide a fire engine, and weighing machine.

It was to be paid for by a rate not exceeding three shillings, but in reality this was insufficient. The improvements were subsidised by an additional £900 from the Corporation.

In 1826 they opened a gas works on the site of Arboretum Road. It was designed in 1825 by the famous engineer John Urpeth Rastrick who formed Foster, Rastrick and Company at Stourbridge with James Foster, and built some early locomotives including the Stourbridge Lion. The gas works were erected at a cost of £4,000, and let at such a high rent that the Walsall rates were much lower than in neighbouring towns. Unfortunately the gas works could not keep up with the growing demand, and so in 1850 a new gas works was built in Wolverhampton Street, alongside the canal.

The work of the improvement commissioners was taken over by the Corporation in 1876, and in 1877 Pleck Gas Works was built by the canal. Wolverhampton Street gas works then became a storage facility.

The extensions to Walsall Gas Works. From the 1937 Walsall Red Book.

Developments on The Bridge

At the start of the century the section of Walsall Brook crossing The Bridge was fully exposed, shallow, wide, and prone to flooding. It almost divided the town in two, with Park Street and Digbeth sloping down to the level of the stream. The houses on either side were approached by flights of steps, so the whole area looked very different to what we see today. The brook was crossed by a low footbridge, which in times of flood could be partially underwater. When this occurred ladies were carried across on horseback for a fare of one penny. Horses were kept for this purpose at the New Inn.

Around 1813 work began on improving the area starting with the removal of the old manorial mill which for some time had been used as a blacksmith’s shop by a Mr. Chadwick. It was soon demolished and the materials were sold for £31. In front of it was a watering place for horses, and alongside stood a rubbish heap. Between the New Inn at the bottom of Park Street and the brook, was a large well known cock pit which was very popular during race meetings.

Initially the mill race was partly covered over, and remained as such until the enlarging of the square to its present size in 1851. Other changes on The Bridge included the enlarging of the Blue Coat School in 1826, and the enlarging of the George Hotel, also in 1826. The pillars that adorned the front of the hotel were purchased from the Marquis of Donegal in 1822. They formerly stood in front of his stately home, Fisherwick Hall, which was demolished. Before the work on the hotel began, the front entrance was in Digbeth.

The Corn Laws, Politics, and Rioting

The Corn Laws were introduced in 1815 to protect British farmers from cheap imported grain. No foreign grain could be imported until domestic grain had reached 80 shillings per quarter. It was seen as a way of stabilising wheat prices, but in reality caused violent fluctuations in food prices, and led to the hoarding of grain. This only benefited landowners. At the time all MPs had to be landowners.

It caused great hardship and distress amongst the working classes, who could not grow their own corn, and had to spend most of their earnings on over-priced food in order to stay alive. There was much opposition to the laws, which were not repealed until 1846. The following extract from the edition of the Wolverhampton Chronicle published on 6th November, 1815 describes some of the local opposition to the inflated prices:

By 1820 Walsall was in the grip of a severe depression, which caused much anger, and the signing of the following petition:

The petition, which had been signed by a number of prominent citizens, led to a meeting at the Guildhall, and the sending of a petition from Walsall to Parliament which included details of the immense burden of the poor rate, and implored Parliament not to accede to any proposals for enhancing the price of agricultural produce.

Leicester Square in the early 1900s. From an old postcard.

Due to the high taxes, and high food prices, the inhabitants of Walsall took an active part in calling for the reform of parliament. Many joined the Birmingham Political Union and held numerous meetings in the town. In 1830 the Political Union for Walsall was formed at a meeting in the Black Boy Inn in Fieldgate. Prominent members included Samuel Cox, B. Abnett, J. Cotterell, William Cotterell, and Joseph Hicken who was appointed secretary. He later became secretary to the Anti-Corn Law League founded in 1838.

In 1830 the anti-reform Tory Government led by the Duke of Wellington were defeated, bringing Earl Grey and the Whigs to power. A Reform Bill was introduced March 1831, but it failed to get through Parliament and Grey resigned, which led to a general election. It was fought on the question of reform, and resulted in the re-election of Grey and the Whigs with an increased majority. A second Reform Bill was introduced, which went through the Commons, and was awaiting its passage through the House of Lords. Fearing that it would not be passed by the House of Lords, the Birmingham Political Union held a meeting at Newhall Hill, Birmingham to pressurise the Lords into accepting the Bill. Around 15,000 people attended the meeting, but the Bill was rejected, and large scale riots were held throughout the country.

The Bill again passed through Parliament with a large majority in March 1832, but it was again feared that it would be rejected by the House of Lords. By now the Political Union for Walsall had greatly increased in size, and meetings were held at the Duke of Wellington in Stafford Street, which was renamed the Earl Grey. Because of the fear that the Bill would not be passed by the House of Lords, around 200,000 people gathered at Newhall Hill, Birmingham in what was known as the Meeting of the Unions. Their aim was to pressurise the House of Lords into accepting the Bill.

Around 500 members of the Walsall Union met at five o’clock on the morning of May 17th at the back of Mr. Hicken’s house in Windmill Street and with a brass band playing, marched to Handsworth. They were met by members of the Wolverhampton Union, and after a lively discussion, Walsall took the lead into Birmingham. In spite of the massive show of support for the Bill, it was defeated in the Lords, and Grey resigned. The King called upon the Duke of Wellington to form a new government, but he was unable to do so, and Grey was recalled to office.

Feelings in Walsall were high, as can be seen from the following article that appeared in the May 23rd edition of the Wolverhampton Chronicle:

On 4th June the Bill finally passed through the House of Lords and received its Royal assent three days later. It was greatly welcomed and celebrated throughout the country. Feelings were so high, that if the Bill had not been passed, a revolution could easily have followed.

As a result of the Reform Act of 1832 Walsall became a Parliamentary Borough. In December of that year Charles Smith Forster, a Tory, a local banker and former mayor was elected as Walsall’s first Member of the reformed parliament., a seat he held until 1837. There was much excitement in the town during the election, mainly as a result of the political unions. Over ten thousand people marched through High Street to the Dragon Inn where the flags and banners were deposited. Many were members of the Birmingham Political Council who supported Thomas Attwood, one of the candidates, and one of their founders. A battle followed between the Birmingham and Walsall men who were armed with sticks and other weapons.

When Mr Attwood’s followers were expelled from the George Hotel, the Birmingham mob broke every window and forced entry into the hotel removing any piece of furniture they could find, which was piled on The Bridge, and set alight.

The Riot Act was read, and two companies of the 33rd Foot charged the protestors with fixed bayonets, until law and order was obtained. On the election the following day, a company of the 33rd Regiment, and a detachment of the Scots Greys was on hand in case of trouble. An immense crowd formed on The Bridge, and a large bonfire was lit. Attwood’s supporters tried to prevent Forster’s supporters from reaching the polling booth. The riot Act was again read, but the special constables that were on duty could not control the angry crowd, and so the Scots Greys charged through the mob on horseback, soon putting them to flight. During the scuffle thirty five arrests were made. It was a sad episode in Walsall’s political life.

Other happenings in the 1820s and 30s

In May 1824 Walsall’s first savings bank opened on The Bridge under the patronage of the Earl of Bradford, the Earl of Dartmouth and others. Within a year deposits amounted to over £7,000.

In the edition of the Wolverhampton Chronicle for 23rd January, 1820 there is a mention of body snatching in Walsall. At the time, the so called ‘Resurrectionists’ would open graves and remove, and sell corpses for dissection or anatomy lectures in medical schools. The news item is as follows:

In 1825 the Corporation finally decided to discontinue the Mollesley Dole. In its place the Corporation built eleven almshouses by St. Mathew’s burial ground, for poor women, five from the Borough, five from the Foreign, and one from Rushall. The decision was unpopular and resulted in a considerable disturbance in the town. Placards were put-up, and the authorities were subjected to a great deal of scurrilous abuse.

The 2nd May, 1831 saw the opening of Bradford Street, a new road to greatly improve the journey between Walsall and Darlaston, and Wednesbury. People assembled on the opening day to watch Mr. Quinton’s Birmingham coach pass along the road, and stop half way for the road naming ceremony.

The Coronation of William IV took place on Tuesday 8th September, 1831. This was celebrated in Walsall by a procession through the town which marched to the grandstand at the racecourse.  It consisted of the mayor, John Heeley, the corporation, the odd fellows, the druids, and other lodges. A few days later school children paraded through the town to the racecourse where they were given wine and cake.

It was suggested at the time that it arrived in Walsall direct from Bilston, carried by the water in the canal, mainly because the first victims lived alongside the canal.

Bridge Street, originally called New Street. From an old postcard.

One resident, Thomas Jackson, described the disease as a shocking and agonising pain in the stomach and the bowels, and cramp in the limbs, where life, even in the strongest man, seldom held out for more than thirty hours. In that year there were 346 cases of the disease in the town, and 85 deaths.

Read a contemporary description of the cholera epidemic

The Walsall Horticultural Society was formed in 1834 thanks to the efforts of Dr. Kent and Mr. C. F. Darwall. It prospered for three years, but soon came to an end. The society reformed in 1880.

A New Council

When Lord Grey’s government had succeeded in reforming parliament its attention turned to local government. In February 1833 a select committee was appointed to look into the state of Municipal Corporations in England, Wales, and Ireland, and to report any abuses that existed in them, and what corrective measures were needed.

The commission issued its report in 1835 after investigating 285 towns, including Walsall. The findings of the report led to passing of the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835. The Act established a uniform system of municipal boroughs, each governed by a town council that was annually elected by ratepayers. The council in turn were to elect aldermen to serve on it, with a six year term. Towns were divided into wards. The Act reformed 178 Boroughs, and others soon followed.

The publication of the commission’s report led to a crisis in Walsall. The Mayor, Charles Forster Cotterell resigned, but was then informed by the steward of the lord of the manor, that he could not resign. This led to a special meeting of the Corporation who took legal advice on how to proceed. A writ was issued by the King’s Bench, ordering the Mayor to return to his office, but he failed to do so.

A petition was sent to the House of Commons from the inhabitants of Walsall in favour of reform, and under the terms of the Municipal Corporations Act the old Corporation was restructured into the new Borough Council.

The first council elections were held in December 1835, with only one member of the old Corporation elected, he was Charles Forster Cotterell who was re-elected as Mayor. The first council members were as follows:

Foreign Ward: Charles Forster Cotterill, Henry Wilkinson Wennington, Edwards Elijah Stanley, David Badger, John Brewer, and Moore Hildick.

St. George’s Ward: Richard James junior, Joseph Cowley, Samuel Powell, John Eglington, John Wilkes, and Thomas Hackett.

Bridge Ward: Charles Forster Cotterill, Joseph Cotterill, William Dixon, Samuel Smith, Thomas Dutton, and Charles Mason.

The new council met for the first time in January 1836.

From an old postcard.

Walsall in 1835

In the early part of the century, the old Corporation did little for the town directly, but was active through the improvement commissioners, who did their best to improve the town, according to the limited means at their disposal. The principal improvements included the construction of Lichfield Street, a fine new street connecting Bridge Street to Lichfield Road. Other new streets included Bradford Street, Goodall Street, Freer Street, Mountrath Street, Great Newport Street, and Little Newport Street. Many old buildings were removed or rebuilt, and the growing, prosperous town began to look more affluent.

Read about the Walsall Red Books and the Walsall Advertiser

Although there had been many problems with law and order, particularly due to people’s anger over the Corn Laws and the Reform Bill, the same problems were almost universal at the time.

The population was still growing, and more manufacturing industries were appearing, which would guarantee the future prosperity of the town. Walsall could look forward to bright future.